Avoir un coup de foudre avec Julien Matray’s Domaine du Père Jean.

Despite having written definitive books on Château d'Yquem, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and Domaine Tempier, Richard Olney's contribution to America's enjoyment of wine is scarcely talked about today but during my dozen years working with KLWM his reputation and influence loomed large. In addition to Tempier's Bandol, Olney introduced Kermit to Ponsot's Morey-Saint-Denis, Château Thivin's Côte de Brouilly, and countless others.

Olney's affinity for Beaujolais, however, seems particularly striking given that one of the leading experts of the day on Romanée-Conti would also regularly buy whole barrels of Beaujolais to keep in his cellar to draw chilled pitchers from for his simple house red.

Julien Matray in his underground cellar, cement tanks full of mouth-smacking Beaujolais.

This appreciation of simple rustic wines alongside some of the most complex and historic ones makes me even more grateful for my time around vignerons' tables in France.

During these past fourteen years that I've been fortunate to travel around Beaujolais, there are few culinary experiences like those shared with the Geoffray family of Château Thivin. Since launching France+Western, the Geoffray's were kind enough to introduce me to a talented young grower near them named Julien Matray. Julien's family previously sold their fruit to Alex Foillard and Jean-Claude Lapalu, but he has now begun Domaine-bottling, and his early efforts are tremendous. His first releases to the US included a library-release Côte de Brouilly and his more recently released 2022 vintage Brouilly.

2022 Brouilly

2020 Côte de Brouilly