Domaine de Panisse (Châteauneuf-du-Pape, RHÔNE SUD)
New life at an old Provençal farmhouse in Northern Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Axel Vacheron in the 100-year-old bush vines that surround the Domaine de Panisse.
The Vacheron family behind Clos du Caillou acquired an old estate in Courthézon called Domaine de Panisse, which has existed for centuries and never been touched by chemicals, but since modern times has only sold their grapes to négociants. Located just below Beaucastel on the northern boundary of the appellation, the estate has 7 hectares that sits on the confluence of where the three major terroirs of the Châteauneuf all meet (galets roulés pudding stones, compacted clay, and pure sand). Planted to old massale Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, and a little Cinsault, the vines have between 60-100 years of age.
Domaine de Panisse is organic and biodynamic, but since being farmed by Marilou Vacheron and her brother Axel in 2020, it is now in conversion to be certified as well.
Domaine de Panisse 2021 Côtes du Rhône Rouge “Le Mazet” (pdf tech sheet)
Domaine de Panisse 2020 Côtes du Rhône Rouge “Le Mazet” (pdf tech sheet)
Comprised of 60% Grenache Noir with 40% Syrah, coming mainly clay soil, both cépages are de-stemmed before fermentation in wooden tanks, then racked into cement for aging. Despite its Côtes-du-Rhône status, it drinks well above its class, and I was totally charmed with this silky red that is completely balanced and elegant.
Domaine de Panisse 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge “Le Mas” (pdf tech sheet)
Domaine de Panisse 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge “Le Mas” (pdf tech sheet)
Predominantly 100-year-old Grenache Noir from the lieu-dit of "La Janasse" on galets roulés, with 20% of old gobelet Mourvèdre around the Mas on deep clay, 20% of Syrah on the fine sand of "La Bousquet", and roughly 5-10% of Cinsault. Loaded with wild garrigue, there is a juicy red plum quality with spice and liquorice. The greater percentage of Mourvèdre at this estate contributes to lower alcohol than the Caillou wines (which are already among the more elegant in the region) and recalls a time in the region before Parker and point scores.
Sharing a name with the famous Marcel Pagnol character Honoré Panisse, who Alice Waters also named her Berkeley restaurant after in 1971, the old-style reds from this tiny Domaine similarly echo a Provence of yesteryear. Finding Grenache from one of The great terroirs of France that is this delicious, elegant, and inviting--- that you actually want to drink! --- felt almost too good to be true, but as my previous employer wrote after discovering the Hermitage from Gerard Chave, "May this be just the beginning."